![]() In some cases, however (I shot a few test shots at an event with a speaker in front of a black background), and found the necessary noise reduction required cancelled out the sharpness increase of the camera's lack of AA filter. In many cases, there is almost no effect on overall image quality. The "neat noise" slider eliminates this noise entirely, at some expense to fine details depending on the level of banding. If you do not have this software, I would be happy to process one of your test NEF files for you. I am, however, following these discussions with interest, as I hope that Nikon will release a firmware update or different model that does not have this issue.įor myself, I found the best software to reduce the banding directly at the raw level is Silkypix Pro 5. For now, I've decided to avoid posting at the dpreview forums as there are a number of extremely rude individuals at that site who cannot accept the fact that some cameras have limitations/defects if they have not experienced the problems themselves. I tried 2 D7100 bodies and posted about it in the dpreview forums, ultimately returning both. Thanks for all your posts-it's an interesting read. I'd always expose for the subject, and never care about the background, with my shooting style, the background would usually be out of focus anyway since I rarely do use wide angles.Ģ- Even with a blown out background, I like the picture, it looks like more ethereal.ģ- When I want to preserve the background, I expose to the right, and depend on the highlight recovery (which was phenomenal on the 5D2 & 5D3), then push the shadows a little in post, but never reach +3 EV by any means.Ĥ- Usually I shoot such scenarios at low ISO which doesn't show much banding when pushing the shadows, especially when the picture is re-sized to my usual 2500px width.ĥ- I find that pushing the shadows too much results in an unnatural color cast or white balance, so I rarely do use that.Ħ- Finally, if the picture is hopeless, I pretend it didn't exist, delete it immediately, and don't bother myself. Here's what I did when shooting a back-lit subject with my Canon:ġ. Well, first of all, I am really impressed with the clean shadow recovery of the D7000 w/o banding, something I was never able to experience (to that extent) with all of my Canon sensors. I will have to see how the new alternative performs for me compared to the D7100. So those are some of the reasons I am willing to tolerate the banding and why I want to buy it again. But there are the other features too such as the Auto ISO and Canon-style exposure compensation that I like. I also know that if I resize the image to 12mp equivalent or smaller, its high ISO is just as good as the D3 and D700. I don't know if it's due to the higher resolution, the lack of an AA filter, or what. For me, when I look at my D7100 shots, they seem noticeably sharper than shots I had taken with my previous DX cameras. One question is why you need to find a way to work around those limits. I think you just need to get familiar with the limits of the D7100 so you can work around them. Yes I can understand why you would be frustrated, especially coming from the D7000 which had no problems at all with shadow recovery. Nonetheless, I have not yet seen banding in my normal shots, except for that day when I shot with 12-bit lossy compression (see below). So I would say my risk is higher than average. In my case, I like to shoot backlit shots and I often underexpose intentionally to preserve highlights, then push the exposure in post. For a few people, such as those who like to shoot sunsets, it is more likely to be observable (depending on other factors such as whether they like sunsets that show a lot of shadow detail or no detail like as a silhouette). If you combine these three factors, it gives you an idea of the likelihood of the banding issue affecting your shots. Here is a test shot at 1000 ISO (cropped).Įven if the exposure is raised +5EV, the banding is hardly visible.įrom testing several shots at 14-bit raw, it seems that the banding will show up if exposure is pushed by around +2.7 to +3EV. If the ISO is high enough, the banding will not be easily discernible because of the noise in the image. Most of the image has negligible banding, like the left branch, which shows that banding tends to appear only in the deepest shadows.
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